You’d never felt out of place until you’ve stepped into a meat market in the middle of Athens as an Asian kid.
This is not a story about the ancient Greek buildings and the iconic Acropolis. On the contrary, it is a story which does not involve any tourist attractions that would instantly remind people of Athens. It is a story about an ordinary address on the guide written by my Airbnb host, Marina.
“Ipiros, Filopimenos 4, Athens (Near Monastiraki metro station). This one is very nice and special, it is inside the Central Meat Market called Varvakeios.”
No, I am not a hipster who has a deep hatred towards tourist spots when I travel — but I’m not enthusiastic about tourist spots either. In this instance, I visited some of the typical Athens attractions just a few days ago.
I landed in Athens a week before the meat market visit. Far from a common itinerary for Athens, the first couple of days were mostly about my cousin’s wedding. Attending the rehearsal dinner, meeting relatives who are eager to attend your own wedding (even I was only 23 and jus about to graduate in a week). And, finally, the beautiful Greek wedding with a touch of Chinese influence — in the form of a tea ceremony — by the beach.
I spent next few days cafe hopping in the heart of Athens, strolling through the streets of Monastiraki and going on a street photography tour. Of course, I can’t leave watching a movie on a rooftop cinema with a view of Acropolis as one of the memorable experiences in Athens. At least, it was before the meat market chapter. Then, I left for Santorini for a few days.
As I had to take an evening flight from Athens to London after the Santorini trip, it gave me an extra day to further explore Athens.
Going through Marina’s list of restaurants and cafes in the neighbourhood, I stumbled upon that very address.
Brunch places? Ticked. Modern Greek? Ticked. Souvlaki? Ticked. Multiple times! Let’s give the meat market a try. I deliberated over my itinerary for the day.
In almost every cities I’ve visited, food markets are a go-to. It is part of my travel rituals to explore food markets in each cities. The diversity and the hospitality in a food market are symbolic to the confluence of cultures. It is my sure-fire way to feel more like a local than a tourist, particularly those which do not serve any local food. Look up Camden Market and Markthalle Neun.
Hey, I haven’t explored any food markets in Greece. A meat market? Why not! I thought with a salient fascination with food markets.
Curiosity grew as I was figuring out what sort of food will I be served in a meat market. I was almost certain that it’ll be local Greek food as Athens has not exhibited the most diverse culinary scene. But, based on the food I’ve had up to this point, it’s far from a complaint. Here I was, finally heading to a food market that serves local food.
Sporting a black and white floral shirt and a pair of Adidas three stripes track pants, it still did not hit me that how outlandish it would be in a Greek meat market. Oh, and I forgot about the jade Buddha necklace.
I took a bus to the city centre upon arriving in the airport. Here I go, searching for “Varvakeios” in Google Maps while walking towards that direction. After 15 minutes or so under the scorching sun of Athens, I stood in front of a big old-fashioned market hall. The nostalgic architecture around me somehow resembles my home, Georgetown.
At this exact moment, unaware of the adventure I’ll be walking into, I just couldn’t wait to enjoy a delicious Greek meal (or in Marina’s words, very nice and special). As I stepped into the market, it immediately instilled a sense of nostalgia. It reminded me of the wet market where I would wait for my mom to do her groceries shopping as a child. Then, walking down the boisterous hallway surrounded by a group of exuberant butchers, I started wondering if I was in the right place. Despite noticing the butchers are made up of middle-aged Greek men and South Asian men, they share the same perplexed look.
Each extra steps I took, the degree of bewilderment and puzzlement on their faces increased by one extra bit. It was just a couple of minutes since I became the focal point of the market but it felt like I had spent an hour there.
Where’s the restaurant? Should I just leave and dine elsewhere? I thought in consternation.
However, as I took a deeper step into the market, the butchers started approaching me with ebullience. Never would I had thought just a few minutes ago, a Greek man who couldn’t speak any English would attempt to persuade a tourist to buy some meat.
“I am a tourist. I’m not buying any meat,” I said.
They finally left me alone after realising that I had no intention to purchase anything.
And, after 20 minutes which lasted way longer in my mind, I found the restaurant, “Ipiros”.
This better be good. I whispered to myself after the “life-changing escapade” of walking through a myriad of meat as a foreigner in Athens.
But, the doubt went out of the window as soon as I saw the eclectic mix of dishes and soups through the window because it reminded me of “mixed rice” from home. What characterises “mixed rice” is the broad range of flavours, which is emblematic of the marriage of cultures in Malaysia, served in massive old metal trays and pots. Reminiscing on the home-cooked “mixed rice”, I envisaged that these dishes are going to taste like the comfort food your grandma would make. I was assured that this thrilling meat market trip was going to be worth it. Why was I so certain? The rows of old metal trays and pots did the trick…
“What would you like to have?” The host asked.
Before picking the dishes of my choice, akin to how I would start with “mixed rice”, I was served with a surfeit of white rice first. The meal featured meatballs with a piquant tomato sauce, roasted potatoes and an extra succulent grilled fish. They were so simple yet delicious. The dining experience was delightful as it had not been often to find amazing food prepared in such a rustic fashion since moving to the UK two years before.
While I was having a drink in the hipsteresque Psyri afterwards, before departing to the airport, I realised these events epitomised my purpose in travelling. It’s not just about a mere meat market trip, the hearty comfort food and it’s definitely not about the old trays and pots. Stepping into a local spot as a foreigner, meeting people who would remind you of your otherness and meeting people who would remind you of our similarities. And usually, the similarities are identified through food, through cultures.
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